The blazing heat of summer is past, September glow is upon us, and the fall change is right around the corner. Road trip to Vermont anyone? Fall is not only a beautiful time in the changing seasons, but style has its most dramatic shake up as well.

Hairstyles for the fall range from short and clean, to a shaggy mess, with everything in between. As expected, extensions are still a huge part of the hair fashion mix this year, with super long extensions being a favorite choice for many Hollywood beauties.

Beauty Launchpad magazine has an interesting article this month on 9 trends to look for this fall. Here’s a clip from the article:

“This fall is about having an edge to your styles in order to balance out the super-feminine fashions,” informs Dean Banowetz, Joico celebrity spokesperson and lead stylist for Fox’s
smash hit American Idol. “They’re classic yet edgy, and detailed without being fussy. Length isn’t a factor for fall—both short and long hair are hot topics—but the training required to bring any length and style of hair to life is a must. To this end, classic haircutting shapes are key.”

Click here for the full article.

When something becomes popular, it’s very common for that item to have knock-offs and imposters mixed right in with legitamate offers. Hair extensions are no different, and as an industry has a fair share of dangers and fakes.

We’ve stated it on the blog before, and we’ll say it again here: Be absolutely sure your stylist knows how to correctly apply your hair extensions. Ask if they’ve been trained, by whom (which company) and be sure to ask around for other opinions.

Dodgy stylists aren’t the only ones to blame here either - often scalp damage can be avoided if only the client listened during the application or follow up process as to best care practices. A good stylist, however, will go above and beyond to ensure that the client understands proper care. Proper care of extensions really is key to a healthy head.

Things to ask and look out for, if this is your first time getting extensions:

1) Hair: Where did they get it, is it Remy? Is it a reputable brand that you’ve heard of or was able to find online?

2) Application: Have they been trained by the manufacturer on proper application and care?

3) DIY extensions: Talk to a trained stylist before you buy - make sure the manufacturer provides detailed instructions for DIY application and long term care.

4) Is the salon known for great hair extensions? Just because a salon offers extensions, doesn’t necessairly mean they have any business doing so - this is the “trend” factor - and where an increasing number of younger girls particularly, are having bad experiences. Is the salon reputable? Is the stylist qualified?

This is your head we’re talking about, and your money - DO NOT BE SHY about asking as many questions as you want. If the salon or stylist is put off by your inquisitiveness, then that’s a major red flag, and you should head for the door. Like with any major purchase, it’s critical that you understand what you’re investing in, do proper research so that you are informed, discuss your thoughts with a certified and trained professional, and be sure to take care of your investment after a successful application.

1) Can we talk? Absolutely be sure to have a sit-down, thorough consultation BEFORE you show up for your hair appointment. It’s a real change in your day to day hair care, and it is a lengthy process. You should budget 45 minutes in which to learn from your stylist (or explain if you are the stylist) how the extensions will under the hair, how the hair will be cut and styled, how it will feel and certainly long term maintenance.

2) Style: After your consultation, or during, make certain your stylist/operator knows how you will style your hair from day to day so they can fit the extensions to suit your needs. If this is not taken in to account, your styling of their extension installation could be unnatural and unflattering.

3) Put your head to bed: Hair extensions can go wonky overnight so it is good practice to put it up at night.

4) Brush, Brush, Brush: Look out for small cylindrical brushes and choose instead the big fatties (you know the ones - wide paddles) You could always try Tangle Teezer (www.hqhair.com) to gently pull out knots if things go awry.

5) Match, don’t Mix: Have your stylist help you match up the texture of the extension (beyond curly/straight) with your own hair, and not just the color, as this will make it easier to style down the road.

*Also, it’s always a good idea to have the stylist double check that your hair is actually the type you ordered - we’ve heard stories of people having “straight” hair put in and then upon first wash it turns out it’s actually curly hair that’s been straightened! Not good.

6) There’s the rub: Shampooing is critical for hair sheen, and overall health (and hygene!) but be sure to take it easy on those dangling strands. Don’t over-rub, or rub too intensely as you can damage or knot the extensions. Try massaging from top to bottom like you might a horses tail. We promise you can still have the herbal essence experience with extensions, just take it easy.

7) Oil! Be sure your products aren’t too oily, as this can cause extensions to slip. Conditioner is included in the list, and be sure to condition from the middle of the extension down to the ends, not at the root.

Gimme a Break! Be sure to give your scalp and your hair a rest between extensions. There are long term risks to using extensions too often without appropriate recuperating periods. We suggest a 3-6 month extension free hiatus to ensure hair strength and health. It’s always a good idea to have your scalp treated during that resting period too - all things in moderation right?

Although the long answer is a bit more complicated. At the end of the day, it’s all about where you get your hair, or rather, where your hair reseller get’s their hair, and what they guarantee. Make no mistake however, it’s a hot topic, and one that British pop star Jamelia has tackled in the upcoming BBC documentary Whose Hair Is It Anyway?, which examines the origins of hair used for extensions in the UK.

At Donna Bella, our hair is always 100% real human hair, and is authentic Indian Remy. While the documentary at first may seem critical of this practice of purchasing hair from Indian temple high priests who shave their patron’s heads, there is a glossy finish on the practice as these priests then take all the earnings and put it back into the temple community to feed and clothe the needy.

Regardless of what brand you use, we encourage all stylists and consumers to do their homework and learn where their manufacturer of choice acquires their hair. If they don’t know, demand that they find out and tell them you’ll take your business elsewhere. Like any hot commodity, hair is both ethically and unethically obtained, which is highlighted in the upcoming documentary.

Celebrities; Sienna Miller, Kate Hudson, and Mary-Kate Olsen effortlessly pull off the hippie-chic look.

Bohemian chic is the perfect summer style for longer hair.  Let your hair follow the nonconforming fashion trends this season by going Boho.

To create a natural look of your own, hair needs to be clean, slightly damp, and un-brushed.  The best time to create this style is after washing so that your hair dries and sits naturally.  Flip your hair upside down and apply a styling product like volumizing mousse from scalp to ends.  Flip your hair back again and let it fall/part naturally as you gently scrunch and lift around the crown of the head and the tips.

Bohemians are usually creative and artsy; so finish the look with your own flare by adding random braids, twists, or vintage accessories. Don’t forget Boho style is all about nature, ease and noncomformity.

It doesn’t have to be perfect and it should be fun!

Telling that special someone, it’s not all yours.

Don’t laugh.  Whether your extensions create more volume or give you that extra length; there comes a point in every relationship where you might need to have “the talk.”

When? For new wearers this is a frequently asked question. Within days of getting the extended locks they naturally feel like your own.  You are comfortable and confident leaving those around you, including your partner, clueless to the makeup of your gorgeous “do”.  However, one day, maybe soon, in a moment of spontaneous intimacy… hands will run through your gorgeous head of hair to perhaps notice the tiny bead-bonds holding it securely to your own.

This might feel strange and unexpected to the inexperienced.  So pre-mentioning the additional hair and giving your significant other a heads up is recommended.  You’ll realize this conversation can turn into a learning opportunity, your now educated partner appreciates and understands your beauty secret.

With hair extensions becoming more common, affordable, and accepted, perhaps one day this kind of “pillow talk” will be unnecessary and nonexistent for those of us with lucious locks.

She Knows author Kori Ellis summarizes the best summer tips for protecting your hair from those harmful (but wonderful) sun rays. From covering with a scarf, to creams and products with spf included, she gives a quick and dirty (dirty is good according to the author) breakdown to summer hair.

Here’s a blurb - click here for the full article.

While the lazy days on the beach and relaxing in the sun may feel like paradise to you, your hair may not share your view on the matter. The salty water, wind and sand may turn your hair into a tiny disaster. But don’t panic — it’s all solvable.

Thankfully, today there are plenty of products to protect both your hair and scalp from the sharp and harmful UV rays.

Scarf it up
The best protection is a cute and trendy scarf or hat. Like this, your hair is protected all the way — and you don’t have to worry about your scalp getting burned.

Cream it in
If you want the freedom of letting your hair loose, you should consider putting some leave-in conditioner on before you head off to the beach.

Another common concern we receive from new stylists making the switch from other hair extension companies to Donna Bella is, “when I buy hair from other companies, the extensions are so smooth and silky when pulled out of the package, but then after a few washes, the hair becomes a dry, tangled mess.”

Here’s why that happens: A little manufacturing trick that has become very popular within the last 5 years is what we call “coating” or “dipping”. After the human hair has been hackled and sorted, it then moves onto the coloring process. After the hair has dried, some companies will “dip” their hair in a silicone solution. What this does is put a slippery, shiny protective layer on the outside of each hair strand, making it look and feel very high quality.

Unfortunately, this silicone solution doesn’t last very long. What happens is the client goes home extremely happy with a new beautiful look. After a few days of wear and a couple of washes, that silicone comes right off, conveying the true quality of hair.

This “dipping” process is very common for manufacturers and hair extension companies to use especially with non-remy human hair. Non-remy human hair is a much lesser quality human hair because of the way it was collected. Non-remy human hair is collected from the floors of salons and homes after it was cut from the person’s head.

The problem with this is that once that hair hits the floors, it’s impossible to tell which direction the cuticle is facing. In other words, which end is the root or top and which end is the tail or bottom? The collector carelessly puts it all into a bag which is taken to market for resale. Why is the cuticle so important? I’ll tackle that topic in another blog entry.

Let’s get back to my original point, the reason why hair may have been beautiful right out of the package, but quickly becomes a dry tangled mess. Remember a lot of the new hair extension companies popping up don’t even know why this is happening to the hair they sell.

The reason is, they have no participation in the manufacturing process. They just get online, locate a “hair manufacturer” and start buying. As we say at Donna Bella, the test of time is our best friend. This is how you, the stylist, can determine the difference between Donna Bella and our competition.

“Why are black hairs mixed in with my blonde extensions?” This is one of the common complaints we hear from stylists that use other hair extension companies. Here’s the answer: Although it happens to all types of hair, the black hair problem is most prevalent with Indian hair. The reason is because within the last few years, Indian women have started using a product on their hair that has substantial amounts of coconut oils.

Over the years, while growing their hair to 18,” and sometimes much longer, the coconut oils have a lasting effect on the hair. It would only be considered a negative effect to manufacturers like ourselves, because it makes the coloring process much more tedious and difficult.

The coconut oil creates a seal or repellent inside the cuticle, not allowing the hair shaft to take new color deposits. Another reason for black hair in your extensions is the black hair strands are synthetic. You might ask how those synthetic strands made their way into your 100% human hair package. I’ll answer that question in another blog.

Even if that black hair does not burn or shrivel up when using a flat iron or curling iron, does not mean it is human hair. There are now new synthetic fibers on the market that are heat resistant. Also a topic worthy of it’s own blog. Another reason for black hair mixed in with your blonde extensions is the hair donor had damaged or old hair.

Damaged from previous hair color. Woman coloring their own hair before selling/donating it, is much more common in China than it is in India. Bleaching hair in China has become very trendy. It used to be only in the larger coastal cities that women would bleach their hair. But because of T.V. and media, even in the rural western cities, which is where most raw hair comes from, women are bleaching their hair. As we all know, bleach damages the hair and makes it more difficult for us to further lift and deposit colors.

Why do Donna Bella hair extensions not have this black hair mixed with the other colors? Donna Bella has always prided itself on the fact that we buy and process our own hair. Besides Great Lengths, Socap, Hair Dreams etc., most hair extension companies buy their hair already packaged. They have no idea where the hair came from or how it was processed. The manufacturers may tell them it is Indian or European hair, but they have no idea because they don’t spend time in India and China quality controlling their products. Donna Bella Inc. does. If any of that poor quality or synthetic hair makes it into our raw hair, it is always sorted and taken out before it goes into the final package.

A very long explanation, but now you know why some hair extension companies have black hair mixed in with their other colors - and knowing is half the battle.

The team at Donna Bella hair extensions had another great show at IBS New York 2008. IBS NY is always a fun show because stylists attend from all over the world. In years past, we’ve noticed a lot of our new stylists come to us with little or no experience with hair extensions. However, due to its popularity, we now notice a lot of stylists are switching to Donna Bella after using other companies products. For marketing purposes we’d love to share the names of companies and reasons/complaints that you divulge to us, but also don’t want to upset anyone. So without mentioning names, we will mention your concerns so others can be on the lookout. Hands down the most common complaint about other hair extension companies is “the poor quality of hair”. With further questioning, we heard:

“A lot of black hair is mixed in with the blonde colors.”

“The hair is very dry and course.”

“The hair is beautiful when I first take it out of the package, but after my client washes their hair a few times, it loses that shine and becomes very dry and frizzy.”

“The hair quickly becomes a tangled mess, even when cared for properly.”

Unfortunately at hair shows, companies can and in some cases will tell you whatever they want just to get a sale. Keep in mind, exhibiting at these shows is very expensive, so can you blame them for trying to sell as much as possible? I say YES, if they’re lying to you. So how do you protect yourself from making the mistake of investing a lot of money toward a new hair extension system, only to find out how bad the quality is? I wish there was some easy trick to it all, but there’s not. Human hair is a lot like diamonds. To the untrained eye, a fake can sometimes look even better than the real thing.

Be weary when companies start throwing around phrases like “remy, virgin, European, Indian, cuticle” etc. Before going to a show, I would suggest that you jump online and do some research. Also try and find out how many years a company has been attending the show. Usually the small guys that throw a company together, just to make a buck, don’t and can’t keep coming back. Some of the major players that have been at this for many years are: Great Lengths, Hair Dreams, Socap, Cinderella and HairLocs.

We’re not afraid to list these companies because we believe in friendly competition. All of these companies have done good things for the progression of our industry. We encourage you to also look at our competition and make the decision that best suits you. Watch for future posts about some of the complaints that were mentioned above. There are answers and solutions for all of these concerns.